Lakes Of Ladakh IV
1 day ago
Tuesday, June 02, 2009
Saturday, January 26, 2008
Walk around Pune
1. 'Lord of the small things'
(c) D.Athale, 2007
He waits,
he watches.
One day, some day...
these small dreams
will be real size too.
2.Light and it's shadow.
(c) D.Athale, 2007
If everything lit always threw a shadow, wonder where does light hide it's shadow?3. Time-bound
(c) D.Athale, 2007
Time stood mute testimonyAs he scrubbed and laboured
And not a word was spoken,
when the sparkle was delivered.
4. Weather- beaten.
(c) D.Athale, 2007
Old arms, tired of supportingOld joints, tired of holding
The weathered facade of mine
rests, along with those,
who pray ... in me.
5.Smoky Dreams
(c) D.Athale, 2007
One last puff before I say 'done',
My eyes closed,
I sleep.
My hands and lips continue...
Allowing me to have smoky dreams.
All photographs and text are copyright of D.Athale. 2007.
Friday, September 14, 2007
a trip up many hills and back...
Spent a week down south...Tirupati and Chennai to be precise. For a wedding in the family.
Won't get into the 'how i said yes' bit, but decided to walk it up all the way to the Tirupati temple. Immediately after getting down from the train from Mumbai. And going barefoot.Luckily I had a huge clan in the literal sense with me. So we reached the base of the hill by cars ( why not?) and set off at 5.30pm.
A little bit of introduction here. The walk up to the doors of the Tirupati temple is around 12kms, comprising nearly 4000 stairs in total...one crosses seven hills. There are 2 paths...Path 1 via Alipiri , which is a suburb at the foot of the hills and the starting location of the common climbing route. The first hill consists of 2500 stairs and is the most difficult to climb. After the first hill, it is crossing the valleys till we hit the mokala parvatam (Kneecap Hill) which consists of another 600 stairs. The second path is Chandragiri - less common and shorter path used by the local people and traders . The path is only 6 km in length but is a more difficult route through the forest. Pilgrims are advised to avoid this path and prefer to stick to the Alipiri route. After the first hill of a vertical climb, it sort of evens out as the path begins to ascend slowly and gradually. Some time later one starts walking down as the stepped path joins the road comprising vehicles going downhill. And then the path continues as part of the road itself...and then the last bit is another steep climb of 600 steps. For all those familiar with Tirupati and gone uphill by car, imagine the same route only more straight...by car its about an hour's drive. By foot, one manages in 3hours after climbing many times over and in sneakers or slippers.
It took us 4.5 hours (in normal speed, one takes about 4 hours, so we did good really). This is also because we had an old heavyweight aunt, who pushed herself beyond her limits (and i'm abs proud of her!) and a cousin with a year old kid. Of course, most of us were first-timers at this experience. And lets not forget, we were barefoot.
The first 2000 steps were really too much to manage for my 'urban set lifestyle with no real exercise'. An uncle suggested that I walk ten steps, pause, breathe in and then climb ten more. Rather than climbing twenty and trying to hold on to your breath, and being more exhausted. It worked! And I managed real well after that. The trick is to also go a bit slow... It did not help tho that you see a white Gopuram on the way and think you've reached, when you are still a little less than halfway!
It also helped that there were stalls and rest rooms on the way. So we picked up Glucon-D powder and all of us kept ourselves alive thanks to it! That and the various juices and goli-soda! And since one has to pause to hold one's breath, one might as well make the most of it. So I enjoyed the lush green scenery of the mountains and the shining roofs of the town below as the sun slowly started setting and paving the way for the Full Moon. At times, it drizzled and made the atmosphere all the more 'heavenly'....an amazing sight!
Climbing these steps became easier when I started focusing and telling myself I can do it. I was lagging quite behind, but once the basic 2000 got crossed, then I felt a surge of energy like never before. I almost ran after that and actually managed crossing all the others. Was it a divine intervention or a religious act of faith that led me, I don't know. Because after that I neither sipped on water nor needed the Glucon D, nor needed rest...I could go on and on. And at that height, once you cross the main hurdle, your sense of perspective really clears up. You can understand yourself and your body better...and the mind and body get into sync to create you. Its a wonderful experience!
On our way, we saw many women smearing each step with ochre turmeric paste and bright vermilion/ sindhur. Mainly women perform this service - and its supposed to be an act of self-sacrifice in thanks for, or in anticipation of, wishes fulfilled. In fact many of these smearings are followed by lighting camphor pellets on a green leaf, on every step smeared. I saw old and I really mean OLD people walking or being escorted up, and every time I saw that, I would tell myself, "If they can do it, why not me?!" And its really motivational and inspiring to see these people, some of them with heavy bags and luggage, climbing up, chanting, singing and dancing to the Lord's Praises. "Govinda, Govinda, Govinda..."
Somewhere down below, a group of religious dancers (most of them school kids) passed up- all dressed in saffron and wearing ghungroos... and just when the first 2000 steps end, there is a break in the ground, where one can sit and rest, watch the city...It was here that we met the dancers again... performing in full glory as if they didn't realise they had just climbed all that way up! And as I reached there, the sight kept me spellbound. A frenzy of orange was set against a contrasting static full moon and lighted town below...it was like fire and ice! Awe-inspiring truly!
We saw the dancers performing again at the next stop point, which was where a huge Hanuman statue has been built. People taking the road by car can see it too. Then again began a series of long corridors and steps...on the way I saw all types of bugs, spiders and different insects- quite gigantic in proportion to what we see at home, I must say! We also crossed the deer park, and people stopped to feed the deers.
Then finally came the road and as we walked alongside the oncoming traffic, one really wondered what would happen if the cars lost balance- they would come straight at us, and there was no barrier between the pedestrian path and the road...but then as someone said, 'we are on the way to God's place, he'll take care of us!'. Such is faith.
We reached the temple complex at 9.45 and hung around a bit, didn't really do a darshan as we were scheduled to go the next day with tickets,etc... and came down in jeeps. Had dinner at a small restaurant and reached the hotel.
Unfortunately for me, on my way back, I sprained my leg real bad and could not walk properly the next few days. Inspite of that I walked around, rather hopped during my temple visits and the marriage. But will also add, that even after walking all that way, I only felt energised! Except the hurt foot, I was absolutely fine the next day! And I am not a very religious person, and didn't climb out of religious feelings or because I wanted God to give me something, but I truly gained a great amount of insight and blessings during that walk. And this cannot be experienced by taking the route by car. So if you are truly seeking heaven, climb up to Tirumala.
***************
A few interesting factoids for the uninitiated:
Won't get into the 'how i said yes' bit, but decided to walk it up all the way to the Tirupati temple. Immediately after getting down from the train from Mumbai. And going barefoot.Luckily I had a huge clan in the literal sense with me. So we reached the base of the hill by cars ( why not?) and set off at 5.30pm.
A little bit of introduction here. The walk up to the doors of the Tirupati temple is around 12kms, comprising nearly 4000 stairs in total...one crosses seven hills. There are 2 paths...Path 1 via Alipiri , which is a suburb at the foot of the hills and the starting location of the common climbing route. The first hill consists of 2500 stairs and is the most difficult to climb. After the first hill, it is crossing the valleys till we hit the mokala parvatam (Kneecap Hill) which consists of another 600 stairs. The second path is Chandragiri - less common and shorter path used by the local people and traders . The path is only 6 km in length but is a more difficult route through the forest. Pilgrims are advised to avoid this path and prefer to stick to the Alipiri route. After the first hill of a vertical climb, it sort of evens out as the path begins to ascend slowly and gradually. Some time later one starts walking down as the stepped path joins the road comprising vehicles going downhill. And then the path continues as part of the road itself...and then the last bit is another steep climb of 600 steps. For all those familiar with Tirupati and gone uphill by car, imagine the same route only more straight...by car its about an hour's drive. By foot, one manages in 3hours after climbing many times over and in sneakers or slippers.
It took us 4.5 hours (in normal speed, one takes about 4 hours, so we did good really). This is also because we had an old heavyweight aunt, who pushed herself beyond her limits (and i'm abs proud of her!) and a cousin with a year old kid. Of course, most of us were first-timers at this experience. And lets not forget, we were barefoot.
The first 2000 steps were really too much to manage for my 'urban set lifestyle with no real exercise'. An uncle suggested that I walk ten steps, pause, breathe in and then climb ten more. Rather than climbing twenty and trying to hold on to your breath, and being more exhausted. It worked! And I managed real well after that. The trick is to also go a bit slow... It did not help tho that you see a white Gopuram on the way and think you've reached, when you are still a little less than halfway!
It also helped that there were stalls and rest rooms on the way. So we picked up Glucon-D powder and all of us kept ourselves alive thanks to it! That and the various juices and goli-soda! And since one has to pause to hold one's breath, one might as well make the most of it. So I enjoyed the lush green scenery of the mountains and the shining roofs of the town below as the sun slowly started setting and paving the way for the Full Moon. At times, it drizzled and made the atmosphere all the more 'heavenly'....an amazing sight!
Climbing these steps became easier when I started focusing and telling myself I can do it. I was lagging quite behind, but once the basic 2000 got crossed, then I felt a surge of energy like never before. I almost ran after that and actually managed crossing all the others. Was it a divine intervention or a religious act of faith that led me, I don't know. Because after that I neither sipped on water nor needed the Glucon D, nor needed rest...I could go on and on. And at that height, once you cross the main hurdle, your sense of perspective really clears up. You can understand yourself and your body better...and the mind and body get into sync to create you. Its a wonderful experience!
On our way, we saw many women smearing each step with ochre turmeric paste and bright vermilion/ sindhur. Mainly women perform this service - and its supposed to be an act of self-sacrifice in thanks for, or in anticipation of, wishes fulfilled. In fact many of these smearings are followed by lighting camphor pellets on a green leaf, on every step smeared. I saw old and I really mean OLD people walking or being escorted up, and every time I saw that, I would tell myself, "If they can do it, why not me?!" And its really motivational and inspiring to see these people, some of them with heavy bags and luggage, climbing up, chanting, singing and dancing to the Lord's Praises. "Govinda, Govinda, Govinda..."
Somewhere down below, a group of religious dancers (most of them school kids) passed up- all dressed in saffron and wearing ghungroos... and just when the first 2000 steps end, there is a break in the ground, where one can sit and rest, watch the city...It was here that we met the dancers again... performing in full glory as if they didn't realise they had just climbed all that way up! And as I reached there, the sight kept me spellbound. A frenzy of orange was set against a contrasting static full moon and lighted town below...it was like fire and ice! Awe-inspiring truly!
We saw the dancers performing again at the next stop point, which was where a huge Hanuman statue has been built. People taking the road by car can see it too. Then again began a series of long corridors and steps...on the way I saw all types of bugs, spiders and different insects- quite gigantic in proportion to what we see at home, I must say! We also crossed the deer park, and people stopped to feed the deers.
Then finally came the road and as we walked alongside the oncoming traffic, one really wondered what would happen if the cars lost balance- they would come straight at us, and there was no barrier between the pedestrian path and the road...but then as someone said, 'we are on the way to God's place, he'll take care of us!'. Such is faith.
We reached the temple complex at 9.45 and hung around a bit, didn't really do a darshan as we were scheduled to go the next day with tickets,etc... and came down in jeeps. Had dinner at a small restaurant and reached the hotel.
Unfortunately for me, on my way back, I sprained my leg real bad and could not walk properly the next few days. Inspite of that I walked around, rather hopped during my temple visits and the marriage. But will also add, that even after walking all that way, I only felt energised! Except the hurt foot, I was absolutely fine the next day! And I am not a very religious person, and didn't climb out of religious feelings or because I wanted God to give me something, but I truly gained a great amount of insight and blessings during that walk. And this cannot be experienced by taking the route by car. So if you are truly seeking heaven, climb up to Tirumala.
***************
A few interesting factoids for the uninitiated:
1. Tirumala or Tirupati is so named as it means that Tiru or Shri or Laxmi's 'pati' sits on the hill. And Sri in Tirumala is known as Padmavathi Devi. Her temple is about 4-5kms from the town below.
2. It is said that a visit to Tirumala is fruitful only after visiting the Sri Padmavathi Devi temple. Legend has it that the Lord (Sri Maha Vishnu, who later took on the incarnation of Sri Venkateswara) showed his reverence towards the sage, Bhrigu Maharshi, even though the sage had insulted Vishnu by kicking Him on the chest. In anger, Sri Maha Lakshmi (the Lord's consort) reached Patala Loka, where she heard a divine voice stating that a pushkarini was dug on the banks of the river Swarnamukhi, and here She immersed herself in penance for 12 years. In the 13th year (during the month of Karteeka, on Panchami day in the last fortnight, highlighted by the nakshathram Uttarashadha), Sri Padmavathi emerged from a golden lotus. It is believed that Goddess MahaLakshmi herself emerged as Sri Padmavathi.
3. One must also visit the temple of Sri Varahaswami, which is to the north of the Sri Venkateswara Temple, on the banks of Swami Pushkarini, the temple pond.According to legend, Tirumala was originally Adi Varaha Kshetra (the home of Sri Adi Varaha Swami), and it was with his permission that Lord Sri Venkateswara took up residence here. People also believe that he keeps a track of who all visited and makes his notes to the Lord, thus ensuring your prayers are heard.
4.Other places to see:
Silathoranam is a natural rock formation in the form of an arch, near the Chakra Tirtham. Geologists have identified the rocks on the hill as pre-Cambrian, and this arch formation suggests an antiquity of several million years to the Tirumala hill. It is said that there are only two other natural rock arches of such great antiquity in the world.
The TTD Gardens - ornamental, landscape and flower gardens - occupy an area of 460 acres in Tirupati and Tirumala.
Kalahasti : This ancient temple dedicated to Shiva is one of the Pancha Bhoota Stalams (temples celebrating Shiva as the embodiment of the primary elements), air being the element in case here, the other five temples being Tiruvannamalai (Fire), Chidambaram (Space),Tiruvanaikkaval (Water) and Kanchipuram (Earth) respectively. This temple is also associated with Rahu and Ketu, (of the nine grahams or celestial bodies in the Indian astrological scheme). The legend here is similar to that of the Jambukeswara temple at Tiruvanaikka. Shiva is said to have given salvation to a spider, elephant and a serpent who were ardent devotees of the Shiva Lingam located here. The spider is said to have attained salvation in Kritayuga (the first of the four yugas in the Hindu tradition), while the elephant and the snake were devotees in Treta Yugam, the succeeding aeon. The elephant's devotional outpouring was a source of disturbance to the serpent's display of devotion and vice versa, resulting in animosity between the two, until Shiva's intervention gave both the devotees their liberation. Kannappa Nayanaar, a hunter is said to have been a great devotee of Kalahasteeswarar. Legend has it that he offered his own eyes to the Shivalingam, and for this reason earned the name Kannappan (his original name being Thinnan), and the distinction of having his statue adorn the sanctum. Nakkiradevar, Indra, Rama, Muchukunda and others are believed to have worshipped Shiva at this temple.
Monday, June 11, 2007
Kerala '07
Kochi (Cochin) airport is a small and clean place with a typical small town kind of architecture- sloping roof, low-height structures and amidst a plethora of greenery...and one revels in the reverie of plantations and grassland... until one reaches the road connecting the airport to the main city... 'Land of billboards' can be another suitable name for Kochi. As I got out of the airport and hit the road, all I could see were these huge structures advertising various things, lined up one after the other, completely covering the foliage behind...
As I travelled on, wherever the eye could see, were more billboards- square, rectangular, small, medium,big, in English and Malayalam, of clothes, numbers, movies, actors, real estate...you name it...
I noticed religion also being a very strong influence of architecture...one saw churches of various kinds, beautifully experimented with in terms of form, design and colours...different expressions of creativity reserved only for God... unfortunately the car I was in, sped so fast that all I managed clicking were few blurs...
The drive to Kumarakom was about 2 hours... had some genuine, non-adulterated, non-chemically-enhanced coconut water- and it's no mean task to finish one- they are huge! The road was very good and the view around even better... the weather complied and I got to see variations of blues from the water to the sky...amazing!
My resort in Kumarakom had a surprise in store for me...got a room that was on the top level, overlooking the huge natural fresh water lake (Vembanad Lake, one of the largest fresh water lakes in Asia, in which 41 rivers merge into) and lawns... but the best part was that the sloping roof above the bath area had an opening, left uncovered so one could glimpse at the sky above... and I will always recommend a bath with the open sky and moon and stars shining above u...it also drizzled, making the environment heady with romance.
Yes, a trip to Kerala without getting the special Ayurveda massage done, is incomplete. I only wish that it could go on and on and last me for the entire day...mmmm!
The next day and night saw me in a houseboat doing the rounds of the lake and then part of the 604 km backwaters(rivers and sea) of Alleppey, reaching Allepey the morning after. The houseboats are like mini apartments-a 2bhk, 3bhk right upto 5 bedrooms...in fact these are so popular that the Kerala Government is introducing seven-bedroom houseboats! And one gets three attendants in tow, as part of the package- one driver, one chef and the third being a man friday...talk of luxury!!! The journey had breaks for lunch and dinner, but all one could see were small thin strips of land and vast expanse of water...reminded me of the movie Waterworld... and with the erratic thundering, and eventually a heavy downpour, my imagination need not have worked hard at all to understand what life on water could be...Luckily the boat stopped at night and I was not too affected with the onslaught of the rains outside... woke up amidst a blanket of greens with all the mangrove plants, which were spread over the water during the day, now aligned by the shoreline.
Alleppey or Alappuzha as it is known, is also referred to as the Venice of the East by travelers from across the world. This backwater region is fairly rich in diverse animal and bird life, but all I could identify were ducks! From Alleppey, it was a ride to Kochi to check in to the hotel and then move out again to explore... Old Kochi is absolutely beautiful to walk around in! A heritage precinct, it has all the grandeur of the old British Raj, mixed with some Portuguese and Dutch influences...very like Goa but more sophisticated. It's a place frozen in time- be it the buildings, the water, the landscape... Saw the grave of Vasco Da Gama, the wonderful port, the bazaar- famous for antiques, Dutch palace, Synagogue, Maritime museum( but from outside as it was shut that day!) that has some wonderful display of landmark objects...Missed seeing the Museum of Kerala History. Well, there's always the next time!
Despite the rains and deserted water side, managed to get a fisherman to show how the Chinese Fishing nets work. These huge nets are tourist attractions in Kochi...a group of six fishermen are needed to work on one boat...two maintaining the balance in front, the rest working on the weights and structure from behind... and got to see how the fish are caught - the nets caught a catfish this time. And the best part of that day was seeing Dolphins!!!!
A day went visiting the Guruvayur temple... the darshan was a tedious 2 hour wait before we could all go in, then a quick 2 second glimpse at what I managed to figure out as being the main idol of Lord Krishna and before I knew it, was out of the place. Then went to see the Elephant Park- Punathoorkotta which is 2km from Guruvayur, and is the largest elephant park in the world with a count of 64 elephants, mostly being donated by devotees. So one got to see JayaKumara, the elephant donated by Jaya Lalitha, then one by some famous actor...and so forth... But what was amazing to behold were the sizes of each of them and their tusks! And all together. Got some gyaan on elephants too... that they are fine till the age of 18 and then slowly go mad... we saw elephants that were mad, some that had managed killing mahuts and some that were absolutely docile. The gentlest of them all was Devdas...who I think, got named because he is so aloof...maybe the lady dumped him!?
My hotel in Kochi was right behind the shipyard and I could see these huge ships being docked and machinery being moved and so on... there is something about machinery and the large construction activity that always gives me a high- blame it on my architecturally-happy nature. And it was that 'pretty' sight that I took back when I went left Kochi for Mumbai...
From different blues of the water, I saw a never ending blue and white of the sky... in fact layers of skies, if I could say it. And India has such a beautiful topography when one sees it aerially... hmm... I felt blessed! And flying over two rainbows confirmed it!
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