WANDERLOGUE

Kelshi

2009-12-15T20:14:00.000-08:00

Kelshi is a small sea-side village, near Dapoli. Famous for it's Mahalaxmi jatra (festival), Sand hillocks and Yakub baba's dargah (7th Guru of Chattrapati Shivaji Maharaj), Kelshi is actually a 'planned' village,built during the Peshwa era.

The village is actually very small, consisting of 4 primary lanes and a small market. Very notable are the houses and temples- the scale, material and even construction techniques being indigenous and self-sufficient. Also the small canals- a well thought element, built about 200 years ago, and still as effective.

We lived in a place called 'Punyayi'. And Vartak aajoba, who owns the place, is one interesting character to say the least.

Location: Konkan, Maharashtra, India

Patterns on the sand.

Migratory birds on the beach.

Docked boats.

Detail of column of the Ram Mandir

A typical village scene.

naturally yours

2009-06-02T01:42:00.000-07:00

just adding some pics that I have taken at a beach in India... enjoy!

Walk around Pune

2008-01-26T00:54:00.000-08:00

1. 'Lord of the small things'
(c) D.Athale, 2007

He waits,
he watches.
One day, some day...
these small dreams
will be real size too.

2.Light and it's shadow.
(c) D.Athale, 2007
If everything lit always threw a shadow, wonder where does light hide it's shadow?

3. Time-bound
(c) D.Athale, 2007Time stood mute testimony
As he scrubbed and laboured
And not a word was spoken,
when the sparkle was delivered.

4. Weather- beaten.
(c) D.Athale, 2007
Old arms, tired of supporting
Old joints, tired of holding
The weathered facade of mine
rests, along with those,
who pray ... in me.

5.Smoky Dreams
(c) D.Athale, 2007
One last puff
before I say 'done',
My eyes closed,
I sleep.
My hands and lips continue...
Allowing me to have smoky dreams.

All photographs and text are copyright of D.Athale. 2007.

a trip up many hills and back...

2007-09-14T00:16:00.000-07:00

Spent a week down south...Tirupati and Chennai to be precise. For a wedding in the family.

Won't get into the 'how i said yes' bit, but decided to walk it up all the way to the Tirupati temple. Immediately after getting down from the train from Mumbai. And going barefoot.Luckily I had a huge clan in the literal sense with me. So we reached the base of the hill by cars ( why not?) and set off at 5.30pm.

A little bit of introduction here. The walk up to the doors of the Tirupati temple is around 12kms, comprising nearly 4000 stairs in total...one crosses seven hills. There are 2 paths...Path 1 via Alipiri , which is a suburb at the foot of the hills and the starting location of the common climbing route. The first hill consists of 2500 stairs and is the most difficult to climb. After the first hill, it is crossing the valleys till we hit the mokala parvatam (Kneecap Hill) which consists of another 600 stairs. The second path is Chandragiri - less common and shorter path used by the local people and traders . The path is only 6 km in length but is a more difficult route through the forest. Pilgrims are advised to avoid this path and prefer to stick to the Alipiri route. After the first hill of a vertical climb, it sort of evens out as the path begins to ascend slowly and gradually. Some time later one starts walking down as the stepped path joins the road comprising vehicles going downhill. And then the path continues as part of the road itself...and then the last bit is another steep climb of 600 steps. For all those familiar with Tirupati and gone uphill by car, imagine the same route only more straight...by car its about an hour's drive. By foot, one manages in 3hours after climbing many times over and in sneakers or slippers.

It took us 4.5 hours (in normal speed, one takes about 4 hours, so we did good really). This is also because we had an old heavyweight aunt, who pushed herself beyond her limits (and i'm abs proud of her!) and a cousin with a year old kid. Of course, most of us were first-timers at this experience. And lets not forget, we were barefoot.

The first 2000 steps were really too much to manage for my 'urban set lifestyle with no real exercise'. An uncle suggested that I walk ten steps, pause, breathe in and then climb ten more. Rather than climbing twenty and trying to hold on to your breath, and being more exhausted. It worked! And I managed real well after that. The trick is to also go a bit slow... It did not help tho that you see a white Gopuram on the way and think you've reached, when you are still a little less than halfway!

It also helped that there were stalls and rest rooms on the way. So we picked up Glucon-D powder and all of us kept ourselves alive thanks to it! That and the various juices and goli-soda! And since one has to pause to hold one's breath, one might as well make the most of it. So I enjoyed the lush green scenery of the mountains and the shining roofs of the town below as the sun slowly started setting and paving the way for the Full Moon. At times, it drizzled and made the atmosphere all the more 'heavenly'....an amazing sight!

Climbing these steps became easier when I started focusing and telling myself I can do it. I was lagging quite behind, but once the basic 2000 got crossed, then I felt a surge of energy like never before. I almost ran after that and actually managed crossing all the others. Was it a divine intervention or a religious act of faith that led me, I don't know. Because after that I neither sipped on water nor needed the Glucon D, nor needed rest...I could go on and on. And at that height, once you cross the main hurdle, your sense of perspective really clears up. You can understand yourself and your body better...and the mind and body get into sync to create you. Its a wonderful experience!

On our way, we saw many women smearing each step with ochre turmeric paste and bright vermilion/ sindhur. Mainly women perform this service - and its supposed to be an act of self-sacrifice in thanks for, or in anticipation of, wishes fulfilled. In fact many of these smearings are followed by lighting camphor pellets on a green leaf, on every step smeared. I saw old and I really mean OLD people walking or being escorted up, and every time I saw that, I would tell myself, "If they can do it, why not me?!" And its really motivational and inspiring to see these people, some of them with heavy bags and luggage, climbing up, chanting, singing and dancing to the Lord's Praises. "Govinda, Govinda, Govinda..."

Somewhere down below, a group of religious dancers (most of them school kids) passed up- all dressed in saffron and wearing ghungroos... and just when the first 2000 steps end, there is a break in the ground, where one can sit and rest, watch the city...It was here that we met the dancers again... performing in full glory as if they didn't realise they had just climbed all that way up! And as I reached there, the sight kept me spellbound. A frenzy of orange was set against a contrasting static full moon and lighted town below...it was like fire and ice! Awe-inspiring truly!

We saw the dancers performing again at the next stop point, which was where a huge Hanuman statue has been built. People taking the road by car can see it too. Then again began a series of long corridors and steps...on the way I saw all types of bugs, spiders and different insects- quite gigantic in proportion to what we see at home, I must say! We also crossed the deer park, and people stopped to feed the deers.

Then finally came the road and as we walked alongside the oncoming traffic, one really wondered what would happen if the cars lost balance- they would come straight at us, and there was no barrier between the pedestrian path and the road...but then as someone said, 'we are on the way to God's place, he'll take care of us!'. Such is faith.

We reached the temple complex at 9.45 and hung around a bit, didn't really do a darshan as we were scheduled to go the next day with tickets,etc... and came down in jeeps. Had dinner at a small restaurant and reached the hotel.

Unfortunately for me, on my way back, I sprained my leg real bad and could not walk properly the next few days. Inspite of that I walked around, rather hopped during my temple visits and the marriage. But will also add, that even after walking all that way, I only felt energised! Except the hurt foot, I was absolutely fine the next day! And I am not a very religious person, and didn't climb out of religious feelings or because I wanted God to give me something, but I truly gained a great amount of insight and blessings during that walk. And this cannot be experienced by taking the route by car. So if you are truly seeking heaven, climb up to Tirumala.
***************
A few interesting factoids for the uninitiated:

1. Tirumala or Tirupati is so named as it means that Tiru or Shri or Laxmi's 'pati' sits on the hill. And Sri in Tirumala is known as Padmavathi Devi. Her temple is about 4-5kms from the town below.
2. It is said that a visit to Tirumala is fruitful only after visiting the Sri Padmavathi Devi temple. Legend has it that the Lord (Sri Maha Vishnu, who later took on the incarnation of Sri Venkateswara) showed his reverence towards the sage, Bhrigu Maharshi, even though the sage had insulted Vishnu by kicking Him on the chest. In anger, Sri Maha Lakshmi (the Lord's consort) reached Patala Loka, where she heard a divine voice stating that a pushkarini was dug on the banks of the river Swarnamukhi, and here She immersed herself in penance for 12 years. In the 13th year (during the month of Karteeka, on Panchami day in the last fortnight, highlighted by the nakshathram Uttarashadha), Sri Padmavathi emerged from a golden lotus. It is believed that Goddess MahaLakshmi herself emerged as Sri Padmavathi.
3. One must also visit the temple of Sri Varahaswami, which is to the north of the Sri Venkateswara Temple, on the banks of Swami Pushkarini, the temple pond.According to legend, Tirumala was originally Adi Varaha Kshetra (the home of Sri Adi Varaha Swami), and it was with his permission that Lord Sri Venkateswara took up residence here. People also believe that he keeps a track of who all visited and makes his notes to the Lord, thus ensuring your prayers are heard.
4.Other places to see:
Silathoranam is a natural rock formation in the form of an arch, near the Chakra Tirtham. Geologists have identified the rocks on the hill as pre-Cambrian, and this arch formation suggests an antiquity of several million years to the Tirumala hill. It is said that there are only two other natural rock arches of such great antiquity in the world.
The TTD Gardens - ornamental, landscape and flower gardens - occupy an area of 460 acres in Tirupati and Tirumala.
Kalahasti : This ancient temple dedicated to Shiva is one of the Pancha Bhoota Stalams (temples celebrating Shiva as the embodiment of the primary elements), air being the element in case here, the other five temples being Tiruvannamalai (Fire), Chidambaram (Space),Tiruvanaikkaval (Water) and Kanchipuram (Earth) respectively. This temple is also associated with Rahu and Ketu, (of the nine grahams or celestial bodies in the Indian astrological scheme). The legend here is similar to that of the Jambukeswara temple at Tiruvanaikka. Shiva is said to have given salvation to a spider, elephant and a serpent who were ardent devotees of the Shiva Lingam located here. The spider is said to have attained salvation in Kritayuga (the first of the four yugas in the Hindu tradition), while the elephant and the snake were devotees in Treta Yugam, the succeeding aeon. The elephant's devotional outpouring was a source of disturbance to the serpent's display of devotion and vice versa, resulting in animosity between the two, until Shiva's intervention gave both the devotees their liberation. Kannappa Nayanaar, a hunter is said to have been a great devotee of Kalahasteeswarar. Legend has it that he offered his own eyes to the Shivalingam, and for this reason earned the name Kannappan (his original name being Thinnan), and the distinction of having his statue adorn the sanctum. Nakkiradevar, Indra, Rama, Muchukunda and others are believed to have worshipped Shiva at this temple.

Kerala '07

2007-06-11T05:23:00.000-07:00

Kochi (Cochin) airport is a small and clean place with a typical small town kind of architecture- sloping roof, low-height structures and amidst a plethora of greenery...and one revels in the reverie of plantations and grassland... until one reaches the road connecting the airport to the main city... 'Land of billboards' can be another suitable name for Kochi. As I got out of the airport and hit the road, all I could see were these huge structures advertising various things, lined up one after the other, completely covering the foliage behind...

As I travelled on, wherever the eye could see, were more billboards- square, rectangular, small, medium,big, in English and Malayalam, of clothes, numbers, movies, actors, real estate...you name it...

I noticed religion also being a very strong influence of architecture...one saw churches of various kinds, beautifully experimented with in terms of form, design and colours...different expressions of creativity reserved only for God... unfortunately the car I was in, sped so fast that all I managed clicking were few blurs...

The drive to Kumarakom was about 2 hours... had some genuine, non-adulterated, non-chemically-enhanced coconut water- and it's no mean task to finish one- they are huge! The road was very good and the view around even better... the weather complied and I got to see variations of blues from the water to the sky...amazing!

My resort in Kumarakom had a surprise in store for me...got a room that was on the top level, overlooking the huge natural fresh water lake (Vembanad Lake, one of the largest fresh water lakes in Asia, in which 41 rivers merge into) and lawns... but the best part was that the sloping roof above the bath area had an opening, left uncovered so one could glimpse at the sky above... and I will always recommend a bath with the open sky and moon and stars shining above u...it also drizzled, making the environment heady with romance.

Yes, a trip to Kerala without getting the special Ayurveda massage done, is incomplete. I only wish that it could go on and on and last me for the entire day...mmmm!

The next day and night saw me in a houseboat doing the rounds of the lake and then part of the 604 km backwaters(rivers and sea) of Alleppey, reaching Allepey the morning after. The houseboats are like mini apartments-a 2bhk, 3bhk right upto 5 bedrooms...in fact these are so popular that the Kerala Government is introducing seven-bedroom houseboats! And one gets three attendants in tow, as part of the package- one driver, one chef and the third being a man friday...talk of luxury!!! The journey had breaks for lunch and dinner, but all one could see were small thin strips of land and vast expanse of water...reminded me of the movie Waterworld... and with the erratic thundering, and eventually a heavy downpour, my imagination need not have worked hard at all to understand what life on water could be...Luckily the boat stopped at night and I was not too affected with the onslaught of the rains outside... woke up amidst a blanket of greens with all the mangrove plants, which were spread over the water during the day, now aligned by the shoreline.

Alleppey or Alappuzha as it is known, is also referred to as the Venice of the East by travelers from across the world. This backwater region is fairly rich in diverse animal and bird life, but all I could identify were ducks! From Alleppey, it was a ride to Kochi to check in to the hotel and then move out again to explore... Old Kochi is absolutely beautiful to walk around in! A heritage precinct, it has all the grandeur of the old British Raj, mixed with some Portuguese and Dutch influences...very like Goa but more sophisticated. It's a place frozen in time- be it the buildings, the water, the landscape... Saw the grave of Vasco Da Gama, the wonderful port, the bazaar- famous for antiques, Dutch palace, Synagogue, Maritime museum( but from outside as it was shut that day!) that has some wonderful display of landmark objects...Missed seeing the Museum of Kerala History. Well, there's always the next time!

Despite the rains and deserted water side, managed to get a fisherman to show how the Chinese Fishing nets work. These huge nets are tourist attractions in Kochi...a group of six fishermen are needed to work on one boat...two maintaining the balance in front, the rest working on the weights and structure from behind... and got to see how the fish are caught - the nets caught a catfish this time. And the best part of that day was seeing Dolphins!!!!

A day went visiting the Guruvayur temple... the darshan was a tedious 2 hour wait before we could all go in, then a quick 2 second glimpse at what I managed to figure out as being the main idol of Lord Krishna and before I knew it, was out of the place. Then went to see the Elephant Park- Punathoorkotta which is 2km from Guruvayur, and is the largest elephant park in the world with a count of 64 elephants, mostly being donated by devotees. So one got to see JayaKumara, the elephant donated by Jaya Lalitha, then one by some famous actor...and so forth... But what was amazing to behold were the sizes of each of them and their tusks! And all together. Got some gyaan on elephants too... that they are fine till the age of 18 and then slowly go mad... we saw elephants that were mad, some that had managed killing mahuts and some that were absolutely docile. The gentlest of them all was Devdas...who I think, got named because he is so aloof...maybe the lady dumped him!?

My hotel in Kochi was right behind the shipyard and I could see these huge ships being docked and machinery being moved and so on... there is something about machinery and the large construction activity that always gives me a high- blame it on my architecturally-happy nature. And it was that 'pretty' sight that I took back when I went left Kochi for Mumbai...

From different blues of the water, I saw a never ending blue and white of the sky... in fact layers of skies, if I could say it. And India has such a beautiful topography when one sees it aerially... hmm... I felt blessed! And flying over two rainbows confirmed it!

aaaaaah Rajasthan.... a tourist's paradise!

2007-01-31T11:15:00.000-08:00

Had an amazing experience as I travelled from Jaipur to Ajmer-Pushkar-Jodhpur-Bishnoi,Goda - Sardar Samand- Ranakpur- Nathdwara- Eklingji- Nagda-Udaipur and back to Jaipur. All in a week.

Am attaching some pics here. The rest can be seen, in better resolution, on: http://www.flickr.com/gp/75284714@N00/858UY3

Enjoy the experience and let it blow your mind! :)

Poovar Island Resort, Kerala.

2006-09-03T05:25:00.000-07:00

God’s own country???...well almost!

A boat ride, sandy shores, waves lapping gently as you lie floating…. Songs hum in your head as the wind caresses softly and the scent of wet mud rises to your call…. Esoteric you might think. Not impossible though. And certainly not a dream, as four days at the Poovar Island Resort, Kerala proved.

The first sight of Thiruvananthapuram (the main connecting point) was beaches and coconut trees.....with houses by the sea, reminding me of a devotional song that used to be softly sung by my ‘mallu’ teacher in school-"Cheti Mandaram Thulassi..." in honour of Lord Guruvayurappan. The journey to the resort saw more sand and lots of colour, which was apparent in the bananas being sold on the road-they were yellow, green and yes red too! We got down at a pick up point, by the riverside. Moments later, a speedboat from the resort arrived and carried us over a calm green expanse of the famed Kerala backwaters.Escorting us on both sides were stretches of coconut groves rising from 4ft to 15ft -and one could smell freshness in the air mixed with the subtler magic of silence- simply amazing!

The backwaters opened out revealing a white sandy beach opposite, which became the dividing line between the backwater lagoon and the sea. At one point, very delicately, the land submerges as clear and saline water mingle with each other. The boat stopped at a group of cottages and steps led to the great hall and reception all in wood with a huge sloping roof. My room turned out to be one of the cottages on the bay…and better still, was a floating paradise! (The resort offers stay in either a land cottage, which lies beyond the reception and swimming pool, or a floating cottage - on the backwaters. The floating units are constructed on hollow light weight concrete hulls. They are air-conditioned and fully equipped with all modern amenities.)

The staff is very competent and speaks excellent English and have been taught to chat and converse with the guests, mostly foreigners, to make them feel comfortable. Our attendants were Rajanikanth (apparently after the great movie star whose done Bloodstone and is (world)famous in China---didn’t know about this!) and Pradeep- who said that it is possible one day the float might loosen and we might find ourselves in Maldives...which I wouldn’t have minded one bit, in fact was praying for it... but at the same time, was very content being where I was- maybe it was the romance of the place that added the extra zing!

A trip to Kerala without the legendary Ayurveda massage was unthinkable! So the next afternoon was spent on rejuvenating all our senses...and more. Some great food and a relaxing canoe ride down the backwaters at sunset, completed the serene picture. The resort organises a day trip to Thiruvananthapuram, wherein one can visit the famous Padmanabhan temple that has the awe-inspiring reclining 18 ft idol of Lord Padmanabhan , the Palace of the Travancore Maharaja (all done up in rose and teak wood) and now a museum. Also a must -visit to the Raja Ravi Verma Museum which has within the same complex the zoo, a reptile park and an art gallery. Culture and beauty intertwine to enliven the mind...

And to enliven our hearts, nature played a big part- for on the way back, it rained!!!! Suddenly the place smelt differently. Various smells like sandalwood, flowers, etc mingled with that of the rain.....the heavy smell of tobacco + wet mud created a very potent and sultry atmosphere... Saw a mind-blowing sunset view whilst sitting on the verandah of my 'floating home'.....the waves crashed against the beach opposite and the waves kept getting higher as the sun dropped lower.......our cottages slightly danced to the music of the full moon and sea....as we did too...

*****************************************************************************************

Factoids:
Location- Poovar Island Resort, Kerala
How to get there–
Nearest Airport: Trivandrum - 30 km. Prepaid cabs available at the Airport.
Nearest major Railway station: Trivandrum central -30 km.
It is accessible by a 10-minute ride on the river.
Local Languages- Malayalam, Hindi, English
Units - Categories of Room: 50 Floating Cottages, Standard and Superior Land Based Cottages. All units have air-conditioning, colour TVs with a varied choice of international and Indian channels, and contemporary security devices & systems.
Cuisine- There is Western, Asian and Indian Cuisine to choose from, and two bars in addition to service at your hammock!
Additional- Conference and function facilities range from10-600. The resort offers a choice of Ayurvedic massage programs to suit your personal needs.
Places to see nearby – Padmanabhapuram Temple and Palace, Neyyar Dam, The Zoo, Shanghumugham Beach, Museum, Raja Ravi Verma Art Gallery and Museum.
Contact- K.P. VII/911, Paruthiyoor, Kulathoor Panchayath, Pozhiyoor PO, Thiruvananthapuram - 695 513, Kerala, India. Email: poovarisland@hotelskerala.com

***********************************************************

Trivandrum Sightseeing
Padmanabhapuram Palace:This palace was the capital of Travancore before it was shifted to Trivandrum. The wooden palace contains some interesting murals of the 17th & 18th century. The palace is on the way to Nagarcoil.

Neyyar Dam:Situated 32 km from Trivandrum, this is a favourite picnic spot of the local community. Boating facility is available in the reservior. There is also a crocodile farm and a lion safari park. There are some direct buses from Trivandrum from the KSRTC bus stand. A better option would be to take a bus to the Kattakada (20 km) from Trivandrum, and to Neyyar dam from there.

The Zoo:This zoo is among the best managed in India, it is located near the Napier museum. (Open 9.00 am – 5.00 pm closed on Mondays)Shanghumugham Beach (4 km):This beach is the favourite of the locals. There is a park in the vicinity.

Kowdiar Palace- This palace, home of the late Maharaja Sree Chitra Thirunal Bala Rama Varma and his family is off limits to the public. But the view of the grand old building from the gate is excellent, a co-operative gate keeper just might let you walk a few meters inside for a better view.

Velli Lagoon- The Velli Tourist Village is just on the outskirts of the city. The place is an good picnic spot with some good restaurants and boating facility in the bottle green river. The beach is the other attraction. The fishing activity near the beach area is an interesting sight.

Ponmudi (61 km) -This is a small hill station near Trivandrum, accommodation and restaurants are available. This a good trekking area. There are buses from Trivandrum between 6.00 am and 7.00 pm. The journey takes 2 ½ hours.

Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary (50 km)- This sanctuary is on the way to Ponmudi , a small detour from Vithurai. The possible wild life sightings are elephants, sambhar, leopards and the lion tailed macaque.

(this is part of a larger travel piece that I had written on my visit to Poovar Island, Kerala- edited and re-written into a shorter version for another blog. )

Kanha-Kisli Wildlife Sanctuary....

2006-08-31T12:00:00.000-07:00

Travelling in 'Kipling country', thus known because of Rudyard Kipling's story 'Jungle Book', which was inspired by the Kanha-Kisli Wildlife sanctuary, the journey from Jabalpur Station to the park was eventful and there were loads of stuff that one could see.

Saw a lot of wildlife- the four legged and the two. Clockwise starting from Mr.Channel V, the Indian Ghost tree, Patterned goats, a Langur, different bones displayed at the Museum there, a scorpion (the colour is real!) at close range, a female barasingha deer strolling around (The Barasingha, fondly known as the 'The Jewel of Kanha' is found only in this area!), an anthill (isn't it huge?), male bison (actually speaking- this is HUGE!) and a beautiful peacock in the grasses. Taken the following pics according to the time- reached late evening, so the sunset while having tea outside the sanctuary. Then a lovely moon set in a dark blue-black sky. Early morn (around 6am) when all the cars are stationed at the gate post, ready to go... (this image is the second of a series of pics from 6am to 6.15 wherein the scene rapidly changed from dark to light)...and the last pic is around 6.30-was misty all around as went on a tiger trail.
Tiger we did see- actually tigress! Spotting her, we started to reverse backwards (as is the norm of the jungle) and watched her saunter pass- regality in it's full splendour!
Near the Kanha wildlife sanctuary and on the way to Jabalpur, are the Bheda Ghats. The Narmada river flows with all the strength of a mini-sea. The first picture is that of the crossing (which was under water) to reach the tourist point- we held hands and ourselves while we crossed over....the second pic is that of the waterfalls. The stone here is marble. In fact the place is also known as Marble Rocks....simply awesome! And when one takes a plunge in this water (no, not as stupid as you think I am!) as we saw some people do, it's a different feeling altogether!

*****************************************************************************

FACTOIDS:

Location: Kanha-Kisli Wildlife Sanctuary.

It is one the largest wildlife sanctuary in the whole of Asia and one of the first Project Tiger reserves in India. The total area is 1945 kms with 1005 km being a buffer zone to the reserve. The core area covers 940 sq. kms of bamboo thickets, extensive grasslands and dense sal forests.

How to get there:

Nearest airport: Nagpur (all India)- 266 km and Jabalpur (Delhi)

Nearest major railway station: Jabalpur or Nagpur. Then one can drive down or take a bus. The road journey is about 6-7 hours.

Local Languages: Hindi, English, sometimes Marathi as Nagpur is closeby.

Accomodation: MPTDC log huts (recommended to be where the action is); Wild Chalet Resort,Mocha village (8 kms from Kisli gate); Krishna Jungle resort and Kipling Camp near Kisli; Royal Tiger resort near Mukki.

Entry points: The park is open for visitors from dawn to dusk (though 2-4pm is when the animals get a respite,so all entries/exits are either before 2 or after4). Entry is through two forest check posts- One being the Kisli village (on the western fringes of the core area) and the other is at Mukki village, on the southern side.

Best time to go here: Oct to April. The park is closed during monsoon from July thru September.

Climate: Extreme - > 40 Deg C in summer and freezing in winter. Summer is supposedly the best time to sight wild life. The winters are when the tigers mate.

Average Expenditure: Budget (less than Rs.1000/day)

Per day charges: Vehicle entry: 150 Rs, Visitor entry / head: 25 Rs, Still Camera: 40 Rs, Video camera: 300 Rs

Per entry charges: Tiger Show/ head: 100 Rs, Guide charges: 100 Rs per vehicle

Animals to spot: 22 species of mammals- The Gaur, the largest of the world’s cattle; The Sambar-Largest Indian Deer; The Chausingha- the only Four-Horned Antelope in the world; Barking Deer; Barasingha- the Jewel of Kanha; the Nilgai Antelope, Bison, Leopard, Panther, Tiger, Sloth Bear, The Dhole (Indian Wild Dog), Wild Boars, Jackals, Jungle cat, Macaque; the tiny mouse deer (Muntjac) and more.

Some 200 species of birds inhabit the park that includes the Cattle Egret, Black Ibis, Hawk Eagle and The Red-Wattled Lapwing, Waterfowl,etc.

Places to see within the sanctuary: Kanha Museum, Sunset Point(Bamni Dadar), the Elephant Safari, Shravantal- a watering hole.

Places to see nearby: Bandhavgarh Wildlife sanctuary, Pench wildlife sanctuary, Bheda Ghats